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Churu: Gateway To Thar

This unexplored barren land of Rajasthan, also gateway to the Thar Desert, Churu is nestled in the most rugged terrains of Rajasthan, Churu is the most unexplored terrain of the state unlike Jaipur, Jodhpur and more who boasts of big and famous Garh’s (forts). As a part of the fresco land of Shekhawati, this small little town is adorned with grand haveli’s which are adorned with marvelous fresco paintings those of which have stood the test of time. The quaint town has been abandoned for long, is bound to captivate one an all with its historic tale as it’s like the very heart of the state.



malji ka kamra

The Kanhaiya lal Bagla ki Haweli, The Mantri Haveli and Surana Haweli, with hundreds of small windows welcomes you as you walk pass the barren lanes of this rustic town which was once once full of life. As you step inside these haveli’s you are transported to an era when life was king size. Families still live there away from the hustle bustle of the concrete jungle busy in their own little thing. The town lives in its murals drawn on the walls of these havelis.


Build by the rich trading class these haveli’s spell grandeur and splendor look from the the Rajput era. The beautiful fresco paintings done with natural colours and vegetable dyes along with exquisite mirror work never fail to attract travellers from all across the globe. The oldest of the one Tolaram Kothari Haveli dates back to 1890 which still house a huge statue if the owner. Glass lampshades hanging from the ceiling, antic wall clocks and the famours Kothari family tree drawn catches your attention.


This Marwari haveli sees an amalgamation of European architecture and Shekhawati style fresco paintings. Most of these havelis sees some Venecian influenece in their architecture. Mystery unfolds on the walls of these magnificent as one can find out the age of these grand structures by the paintings done on the walls- ranging from mythology to British.


The place too boasts of a Hawa Mahal with 1111 windows and doors of different sizes. Chhatris are a common site in this town. The only place to stay at Churu- Malji ka Kamra, is no less than a piece of history. Build is 1920, it is now owned and maintained by Deepak Balan, the owner. The rich archietecture is telling the tales of their times. The huge spread of greenary in this convivial haveli takes you back in time, as the haveli is house to some of the great 20th century charm and masterpieces. If you still feel these are not enough then the Banthia Haveli, not maintained well, is sure to take you by surprise as you can see exquisite picture of Jesus smoking a cigar.


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Food in Churu is totally going to get you bowled. With not much options to try real food good Malji ka Kamra makes it a perfect place for a great grub. Right from the local farm that is owned by the place the freshest of ingredients make it to your table as the humble flavours come to life. Laying the spread under the open sky on a cold winter afternoon Chef Manoj makes sure he serves some of the mouthwatering Rajasthani specialities carefully put together like Laal Maansh, Bajre ki roti, Papad ki Subzi, Gatte ki subzi and end up the tummy happy meal with some succulent jalebis.


Churu, reflects the by gone era and the masterpieces engraved in each of the havelis. The air tells a classic tale of rich and graduer heritage. The heritage walks by Mr Lal Singh Shekhawat will be etched in your mind as he takes you around these age-old havelis and telling their tales with much patience


Places to see/ do: The Kanhaiya lal Bagla ki Haweli, The Mantri Haveli and Surana Haweli, Sethani ka Johraa, Desert Bornfire

Distance from Delhi: 220 kms approx on NH-10

Time taken: 5 hours approx

Places to stay: Malji ka Kamra

Author: Ayandrali
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